This past Saturday, I attended a Jane Austen meeting with author-friend Erica Vetsch.
Our speaker was the talented and knowledgeable Candice Hern. She introduced us to a category of small, ornamental, folding fans now called Brisé fans, which were popular during the Regency period. (Although then referred to as ivory fans or pierced fans.) Unlike fans of folded silk or paper, these were made from intricately pierced, carved, and (sometimes) decorated sticks of ivory, bone, horn, or mother of pearl.
Candice described the time-consuming craftsmanship and historical context, explaining that fans became smaller as women switched from carrying belongings in large pockets hidden beneath their skirts to carrying reticules when narrower Regency-style dresses came into fashion. (For a more detailed explanation and more images, visit Candice’s wonderful website.)
We were also privileged to see in person several examples of Brisé fans from Candice’s own collection.
(Fans from Candice Hern’s private collection.)
Candice concluded by addressing the “Language of Fans,” debunking the existence of a system of secret meanings until at least 1827, when French fan maker Duvelleroy began including printed slips with meanings in his fan boxes as a marketing ploy. Even so, she led us through a few fun examples, like: Drawing the fan across your cheek = I love you. Touching the handle to your lips = Kiss me.
Here are Shellie, Erica, and Michelle practicing secret messages with their fans. I believe Shellie is saying “yes,” while Erica and Michelle are signaling “no.” 🙂
Despite the Language of Fans not being, in her terms, “well codified” during the Regency, Candice acknowledged that a woman could still wield a fan quite effectively.
The fan, in the hand of a female, has often been a source of mischievous delight, and many a tender word has been conveyed by its assistance.”
—The Mirror of Graces, 1811
Image credit: CandiceHern.com
What graces does not a fan place at a woman’s disposal if she only knows how to use it properly! It waves, it flutters, it closes, it expands, it is raised or lowered according to circumstances. Oh! I will wager that in all the paraphernalia of the loveliest and best-dressed women in the world, there is no ornament with which she can produce so great an effect.”
— Madame de Staël (1766-1817)
The engaging talk was followed by brunch, and a lovely morning was had by all. Do you belong to the Jane Austen Society of North America? If you ever have the opportunity to hear Candice Hern speak, I am sure you will enjoy it and learn something, too.
JULIE KLASSEN loves all things Jane—Jane Eyre and Jane Austen. She worked in publishing for sixteen years and now writes full time. Three of her novels have won the Christy Award for Historical Romance. Julie and her husband have two sons and live in St. Paul, Minnesota.
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Fascinating! I have several fans…none of them valuable, but I do think they are works of art. Alas, I don’t speak “Fan” so I cannot “produce so great an effect.” 😏
Fascinating! I have several fans…none of them valuable, but I do think they are works of art. Alas, I don’t speak “Fan” so I cannot “produce so great an effect.” 😏
Hee hee!
What beautiful fans! Loved reading this.
Thank you, Robin!