My husband and I recently returned from a trip to the UK, fulfilling travel plans made and cancelled more than two years before. We were so thankful to be able to visit England again, and felt oddly privileged to be there when Queen Elizabeth died—to be able to watch the news with locals and to witness their heartfelt reactions firsthand.
While we were “across the pond,” one of the places we belatedly visited was the north coast of Cornwall, the setting of my novel, A Castaway in Cornwall.
We took the ferry from the town of Padstow across the Camel estuary to the village of Rock, and from there, walked on a narrow, sandy track along the coast and skirted a golf course on a quest to find one of the area’s most unforgettable landmarks—St. Enodoc Church.
After a wrong turn or two we ended up taking a circuitous route partway up Brea Hill (which, although taxing, also afforded a bird’s eye view of the churchyard).
Eventually we made it. How wonderful to see the place in person, which was much as I’d envisioned it when describing it in the novel. (Although now, thankfully, not buried in sand!)
From the sixteenth to the middle of the nineteenth century, this chapel built among sand dunes was all-but buried by blowing and shifting sand. For that reason, people called it “Sinkininny Church,” or “Sinkin’ Neddy.” To maintain tithing rights and consecration, the vicar had to host services there at least once a year. Because the door was covered by sand, he descended into the sanctuary through a hole in the roof. In the novel, this entrance into the church provides a hiding place when the hero is being pursued.
By 1864, the sand was removed and the church restored, primarily through the efforts of the local vicar. This mostly-above-ground church is the St. Enodoc we are able to see and enjoy today.
After exploring the church and graveyard for a time, my husband and I continued on to see other places mentioned in the book: Daymer Bay, Trebetherick, Greenaway Beach (my character’s favorite), and finally Polzeath, before beginning the long trek back to the ferry. Our fitness watches logged over ten miles that day!
The walk was memorable and satisfying—perhaps all the more because of the effort it took to reach our goal. Have you taken any long walks lately? Searched out a place or landmark you longed to visit? Please share.
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I thoroughly enjoyed reading “A Castaway in Cornwall.” And now seeing photos and hearing about these places from your journey is thrilling and brings new life to the story. Thanks for sharing this.
You are very welcome, Bridget. I am delighted to know how much you enjoyed the novel. Thank you for commenting.
What a lovely and wild place. I can almost hear the waves and the sea birds. I hope you got a nice rest after that excury.
I loved reading this and seeing the pictures! Thank you for sharing, Julie.
The heroine, Laura, in “A Castaway in Cornwall” is one of my favorites, and it’s fun to see the places she would have visited 🙂.
I’m glad you are safely home and have more memories of England to cherish.
I haven’t been on any long walks lately, but every September we go up into the cool mountains where I love to walk with my daughter. We enjoy the first colors of fall up here 🍁!
What a lovely and wild place. I can almost hear the waves and the sea birds. I hope you got a nice rest after that excursion.
Thank you, Erica. I have been sleeping a LOT since we got home, that’s for sure. 🙂
So beautiful! Cornwall is one of the places we want to go!
You should definitely go–there are so many beautiful places to choose from. Be warned, however, that the roads are VERY narrow. 🙂
What a fascinating church! And what a wonderful opportunity to visit in person so many settings from your novel. 🙂
I loved this story and my minds eye was comparing my vision with the lovely pictures in this piece. Thank you for sharing this.
My walks are much shorter now days but a mile in the neighborhood is a usual entertaining walk now checking out gardens along the way.😂
Such an interesting post. I loved the book, and these pictures are amazing!
Gosh, Julie – How fun to learn about that church in “Castaway” – it made such an intriguing hiding place in the story and now I can see why! Thanks for sharing that background.