This past Saturday, I spoke (via Zoom) to the New York Metropolitan chapter of the Jane Austen Society of North America. The topic was “The Pleasures and Perils of Travel in Jane Austen’s time.” I have not spoken on this topic in several years, so it was a good refresher to revisit all that research again.
I originally researched travel and coaching inns to write my series, Tales From Ivy Hill and especially Book One, The Innkeeper of Ivy Hill, which is set primarily in a coaching inn. After all, in almost all of my books, travel plays a part in one way or another.
I learned a few new things in reviewing and revising the talk, that I thought I would share with you today:
Coaches had to stop every 10 or 15 miles (depending on terrain) to change horses. This was done at a network of coaching inns along the routes stretched across England. Some inns were grand “Posting Houses,” like this one in Stow-on-the-Wold, which catered exclusively to the wealthy who traveled in their own carriages or in post-chaises.
Common coaching inns, meanwhile, accepted passengers from mail and stagecoaches, and some but not all would accept wagon passengers and travelers on foot.
Coaching inns stabled many horses—some contracted to stage lines or the Royal Mail—ready to replace tired teams. Trained horsemen or “ostlers” could change a team of four in as little as two-three minutes, and prided themselves on besting the times of competing inns. Quick turnovers were especially critical for the Royal Mail who rigorously adhered to delivery schedules.
Occasionally, stops lasted a bit longer, giving passengers time to take refreshment or a hasty meal, which required innkeepers to work quickly. More humble travelers would eat with the landlord in his parlour or even in the kitchen.
Washington Irving wrote: “In the evening we reached a village where I had determined to pass the night. As we drove into the great gateway of the inn, I saw on one side the light of a rousing kitchen fire beaming through a window. I entered, and admired for the hundredth time, that picture of convenience, neatness, and broad, honest enjoyment–the kitchen of an English Inn….”
Wealthy people traveling in their own carriage or post-chaise would often eat their meals in a private sitting room. But by the turn of the 19th century, common dining rooms or “coffee rooms,” as they were called, became more common.
Travel Guides were regularly published in the era. Travelers could choose stage coach routes and inns with the help of guidebooks like Powell’s Guide, Paterson’s, or The Traveller’s Oracle.
Here’s the description of an inn from Powell’s Guide (1831): “The Crown was a coaching inn licensed to a widow called Sarah Smith. “Mrs. Smith deserves particular commendation and support, as being the first…to add to the accommodation of visitors by every species of Comfort, neatness, and domestic attentions.” Like the Tripadvisor or Rick Steve’s of the day!
Are you, like me, already planning a trip for this summer? If so, I’d love to hear where you are going. I would be happy to pray for safe travel for you and would love your prayers for safe travel for my husband and me as well.
May the sick and afflicted, be now, and ever thy care; and heartily do we pray for the safety of all that travel by Land or by Sea…”
—Jane Austen, Prayers
Latest posts by Julie Klassen (see all)
- Gifts for Readers…or You! - November 12, 2024
- Research Challenges & A New Release | Guest Post by Erica Vetsch - October 22, 2024
- Book News & Second Chances - October 8, 2024
Hi Julie,
Your post is so interesting! The way people travel in times and places gone by is fascinating, I think in part, because my family moved a lot when I was growing up (not military). We always traveled by car and never stayed at motels. My husband and I took many short trips with our kids due to his work. Now that our children our married and have children and live out west (!) we have been driving to visit them. This May and June we will drive to Tucson, AZ (child and family), then to California, (work), then to Loveland, CO (child and family), then back home to Ohio . I enjoy driving and seeing the country and am thankful for modern hotels, gas stations, and restaurants. We also stop at many rest areas which is interesting because of the difference in architecture, etc. according to the state. Enjoy your travels this summer and I will be praying for you! Thank you for your prayers!
It’s hard to believe they had to stop so frequently. No wonder it took so long to go anywhere. I’m thankful for the horseless carriages of today, though I wouldn’t mind experiencing a few hours of stagecoach travel and inn hospitality for an afternoon. My historical nature would enjoy the experience, though I doubt I would have the patience to continue enjoying it after the novelty wore off.
I loved learning about travel in Jane Austen’s day via this post! I’m planning to travel on a road trip from San Francisco north up into Washington this summer. I need to get busy soon booking flights and hotels soon. 🙂
Thanks so much for such an interesting article, and I really enjoyed the pictures too! Your Ivy Hill series are wonderful, by the way! I have them all and have read two of them several times! (I’ve also read most of your other books as well, including the 2 recent ones in the Devonshire shores series!) All of your books are great and I am so glad you keep writing!!! My husband and I live in Texas and plan to drive to Michigan (for my late brother’s memorial service) and eastern PA (to visit some of my husband’s relatives) in May. I hope your trip works goes well! Prayers for a safe trip are much appreciated; we’ll be covering over 4,000 miles.