I promised a full post on this fascinating subject, and I’m delivering!
On our last full day in Boston, rain was the forecast. We looked online the night before trying to find tickets for a museum. Any museum. We only found availability at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which, after looking at the website information, was right up our alley! Works of art displayed in a historic home, curated by a fascinating 19th century woman.
Isabella Stewart Gardner (1840-1924) began collecting art in her 50s, after receiving a large inheritance from her father. I found it interesting that earlier in her life she collected books—many of which are still in the museum as well. (Oh to have been able to really look at them!) In 1902, after her husband had died, she built a place to house her treasures. It was styled after the Renaissance palaces in Venice, one of her favorite places in the world. She built what she called Fenway Court on the marshy land in the Fenway area of Boston. The museum opened in 1903.
In her will, Isabella stipulated that her collection would continue to be open to the public after her death. However, if they changed the arrangement of anything in the museum, the entire thing was to be sold and the proceeds given to Harvard! So it’s not only a fascinating museum of art, it’s a look into the mind of this woman as she chose specific locations for the things she collected.
The museum begins in the courtyard. It was so beautiful in so many ways! I could have spent my entire time just sitting here and enjoying its peacefulness and beauty! But of course we explored the rest, too. As we wandered through the beautiful building, listening to the the audio tour via QR codes in each room, we were astounded by the works of art in every corner, on every surface. Not only paintings, sculptures, books, etchings, sketches, etc, but also the architectural features of the building itself, the floor and wall coverings, and the furniture situated in each room as well. Visiting with a timed entry during a pandemic was also awesome because it wasn’t overcrowded! (See? There are some good things about pandemics!)
When we arrived in the Dutch Room, the audio tour explained the large blank frames on the wall—and the mystery of the largest art heist in history! You see, in March of 1990, 13 works of art were stolen from the Isabella Gardner Museum, including a Rembrandt, a Manet, and a Vermeer, among others. And they have never been recovered. Of course this only made us want to know more. On our way home that evening, our daughter found a 10 episode NPR podcast, Last Seen, about the robbery investigation. It remains the largest art heist in history. You can listen here. (Be sure to scroll to the end of the page and start with episode 1. The first 10 episodes are all about the Gardner Heist.) Or listen via You Tube below.
And just so happens that Netflix came out with a documentary on the subject just last week called This is a Robbery. It doesn’t cover as many of the different threads as the podcast, but we loved getting visuals on people and places we’d only heard about.
As you can imagine, if the FBI still hasn’t solved the case in over 30 years, the facts of it are very convoluted. One episode I’m sure “that guy” did it. The next, the other guy. It’s a crazy story that includes both the Italian and Irish mafias as well as just your run of the mill art thieves! If you love a good mystery or a cold case, check it out!
All in all, it’s a museum of fascinating and beautiful works of art, several of which Isabella Stewart Gardner obtained by out bidding major museums, like the Louvre! My daughter’s college friend who was an art major told her this museum is her favorite in the entire world.
If you ever get to Boston, be sure to check it out. Both the museum and its mystery will not disappoint.
Is there an art museum that you love over all the rest? Why?
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Very interesting, Anne. There’s a fascinating BBC show we like to watch on Netflix called “Fake or Fortune” about the art world. I used to love visiting the Art Institute when we lived near Chicago.
Sounds like a very interesting show! I’ll be the art institute was very interesting! How fun!
What an amazing place to visit! This was a woman who knew what she liked, and I love that she was forward-thinking enough to ensure things stayed precisely as she wanted them after her death. Smart lady! I hope the missing art is recovered one day. Poor Isabella must be devastated.
I do too. It is heartbreaking to see those empty frames on the walls.
Oh, this museum looks wonderful! I love the Louvre and Musee D’Orsay. Cliches, but they both have fabulous art.
I’d love to visit those one day!
I researched that art heist when I was writing Sweet on You! And my son mentioned the other day that he really enjoyed the Netflix show about it. I’d love to visit the museum in person one day. 🙂
It’s a really lovely place. Well worth the visit.
Thank you for sharing your experience. Your description has me convinced, I would love to see the museum.
It is so delightful! A new experience around very corner. I hope you get there one day!
I have to second Lynn Austin on the Art Institute of Chicago. My favorite exhibits are the miniature Thorne Rooms and the collection of Impressionist art. Did you know that the art in the Masterpiece board game is all from the Art Institute? When my kids were younger, I brought along the cards on a trip to the museum and challenged them to see how many they could find. We were surprised to find out how big or small the real thing was compared to the card.
How very cool! I’ve only been to Chicago once and it was a business trip, but this is definitely on my list if I ever get there again! Thanks!
I always loved going to the Frick Museum in New York City when I lived there. They had the most beautiful collection of old masters art.